Category Archives: food

If you liked it, then you should have put an egg on it.

Bey­once, girl­friend, for­get rings.  You and I have got to talk about fried eggs.  Espe­cially this one.  Because there’s this woman Deb, she runs an excel­lent web­site, and she has a recipe I think you will like– because see that glossy, fried golden egg on top of it all? This is a recipe all the Sin­gle Ladies can cook in less than a half hour (once the chop­ping is done), fried egg and all, and you only need one pan to cook it all in, even if you need a few bowls for your ingredients.

You can even scoop the cooked hash to one side and do the eggs on the clear bit, to con­serve on the wash­ing of dishes.

And that’s some­thing to sing about.

Deb specif­i­cally men­tions putting the fried egg on top, and are we glad we did.  It binds every­thing together in creamy deli­cious­ness.  We served this with Australia’s Pil­lar Box Red, despite the warn­ings not to serve red wine with aspara­gus.  It worked, nevertheless.

This is def­i­nitely some­thing that’d work with green beans later on in the sea­son– no rea­son not to repeat the combo of fresh green fla­vor with hash savori­ness all through the summer.

(I’m des­per­ately try­ing to find some way to make some booty­li­cious joke, but I’m just lame!fail tonight.  But the recipe works.  Trust me on this.)

Screw noodles. This is the chicken soup that you want.

You will never want noo­dles again.  Fine Cooking’s Chicken Soup with Lime and Hominy. Yum doesn’t even begin to describe it.

I made the fol­low­ing changes.  (What?  Me, leave a recipe all on its own?)  I let the chicken dry-season with the salt, pep­per, and oregano called for in the recipe while I sauteed the onion, gar­lic and jalapeno.  I also juli­enned a zuc­chini and added it dur­ing the last five min­utes along with the lime juice for a lit­tle added veg­etable nutri­ti­tion.  I didn’t bother dic­ing avo­cado, just bought gua­camole and stirred it in with chopped feta and bits of cilantro right before serv­ing.  I cut up real corn tor­tillas, fried the strips with salt and pep­per and oil until they started to turn crisp and golden, then let them drain on brown paper before toss­ing pieces into the fin­ished bowls of soup.

This was incred­i­ble– so very yum.  I swear it cures not only scurvy but the grump­ies and other ills of the day.  (Although that sec­ond glass of Macon-Villages?  That might have helped.)

And now, for something completely different

The new drugs I’m on kill my appetite.

Kill.  I have no sense of full­ness until– boom– I’m sud­denly nau­seous– and if I eat some­thing too sweet, it gets my gag on some­thing fierce.

There’s a post I’ve been work­ing on– badly– for­ever, it seems, about food and con­trol and issues of fat­ness and thin­ness and all of that jive.  It’s not get­ting too far.  Suf­fice it to say I’m not hun­gry.  I feel that as a loss, not just because I get no sig­nal betwixt my brain and my stomach.

Cooking’s cre­ative for me– med­i­ta­tive for me– relax­ation, alone-time, a sen­sory, sen­sual process for some­one who lives in her head and spends much time talk­ing and think­ing.  To be instead tast­ing and feel­ing and smelling and feed­ing– it’s hard to encom­pass all the reward that can bring.

And yet– I’m not hun­gry.  And I don’t know I’m not hun­gry, except when my head is all buzzy and I’m feel­ing con­fused.  I don’t think about food, dream of menus to cook, peruse cook­books in pur­suit of large din­ners to cook for fam­ily and friends in expres­sions of love, because say­ing such things aloud?

Not gen­teel.  Not gen­teel at all, don’t you know.

And in the mean­time, my poor husband’s eat­ing peanut but­ter and jelly, I’m nearly pass­ing out at my job, and I’m los­ing even more weight than I ought, all because I’m not hun­gry nor think­ing about food.  (To the tune of thirty pounds since I started my book­store job, all in all.  Yeah.  I really don’t need to lose any more weight.  Not the kind of thing most peo­ple com­plain about, and yet, still…)

I’m not yet back to dream­ing up menus.  Nor am I up to the spon­ta­neous cre­ation of meals.  But I can dogear my food mag­a­zines and bring them to the mar­ket and do my shop­ping that way– and then I can cook them and take pho­tos– and I can share them with you, at least virtually.

The fol­low­ing things– my, they were tasty.

Slow-Braised Hal­ibut with Shaved Fen­nel and Aspara­gus Salad from April’s Bon Appetit– served with Louis Jadot’s Macon-Villages.  Lovely, piquant, dif­fer­ent, the fish was rich with­out being heavy, and the salad, while kind of a pain in the butt with the shav­ing and peel­ing (next time, I am just putting the whole clump of aspara­gus spears butt-down on the man­do­line and slic­ing them into lit­tle rounds, be damned with the ele­gant strips, since I’d already used the thing to shave all the fen­nel) was really lovely and fresh.  The salad alone is well worth the repeat, maybe on its own as an entree with some hard-boiled eggs, some sliced radishes, that kind of thing.  But the fish, and the but­tery crumbs.  It was deli­cious.  The recipe wasn’t clear what to do with the aspara­gus tips, so I tossed them in with the fish to roast.  They were a bit al dente, but I like them a lit­tle bit crunchy, so it was all good.

Five-Spice Ground Pork with Chi­nese Egg Noo­dles from (these are all the most recent) Fine Cook­ing, served with Cop­pola Black-Label Claret (2007)– I would increase the amount of red pep­per and have more lime wedges at table as a per­sonal pref­er­ence.  I might also serve it with beer instead of red wine.  (Also, peanut alert.  This would be equally awe­some with cashews.)

Rice Noo­dles with Chicken and Cilantro from Fine Cook­ing (subbed for Shrimp), served with Il Pros­ecco.  I would serve red hot sauce as a condi­ment to add at the table, along with some soy sauce, for extra wet-tening/salt-ening pur­poses.  I might also up the gin­ger and jalapeno quo­tient by half again, but I’ve become quite the fan of hot­ter foods in the last year or two.  Note that I made this with already-cooked chicken, and so skipped some of the steps in the recipe about cook­ing the shrimp– I just cubed the grilled chicken and added it right at the end to warm through with the sauce before adding the noo­dles and sauce to blend all the flavors.

Creamy Braised Onions and Gar­lic with Spaghetti from Fine Cook­ing– the sausage was an add-in for more pro­tein, and I used onions instead of leeks, and creme fraiche instead of heavy cream because that’s what I had.  I used ver­mouth as my sta­ple white wine.

I can’t tell you how NOM this last one was with the creme fraiche and the long-simmered onions.  It was kind of like french onion soup, except bet­ter.  It really was com­fort food, and while not gluten free (some­thing I need to keep bet­ter watch of, except calo­ries are some­thing I’m more con­cerned about at this point, quite frankly), it was really delicious.

So.  Happy cook­ing.  May your mag­a­zines be dogeared as you float through the aisles at the mar­ket, and may your hus­bands and wives and sig­nif­i­cant dog­gies and kit­ties and ham­sters look at you funny and say “Why don’t you just make out a list?” and you can just look at them over your glasses and say “Shut up, at least I am cook­ing,” and damnit, you will eat very well.

Espe­cially the one with the fish and the one with the creme fraiche.  Not that I have any favorites.  I LOVE ALL MY CHILDREN.

Bacon Muffins of Love

So– say you’ve been sick for a while– a never-ending cold that dragged on for a month, your cycli­cal spring depres­sion and a brief, scary manic burst of irra­tional rage, var­i­ous fam­ily things going on, etc., and you’ve also got to work and get up every day and at least pre­tend to the out­side world that you’re func­tion­ing like a com­plete human being.

In the midst of this, let us sup­pose you are so lucky as to have befriended some awe­some online peo­ple who not only leave you won­der­ful com­ments and call you even when you don’t call them back and send you encour­ag­ing emails, but one of them hap­pens to be some­one who lives rather nearby and is some­one with whom you’ve been lucky enough to break bread and share in-person laughter.

Fur­ther sup­pose that such per­son, know­ing how mis­er­ably sick you have been, embarks on a cheering-up project of epic proportions.

Imag­ine if, every day for a month, you got a post­card with silly mes­sages she knew would cheer you immensely.

What would you do?

I baked bacon muffins of love.  A whole dozen (though two did not sur­vive tran­sit for var­i­ous qual­ity testing-type pur­poses.  QT is IMPORTANT.)  Today I got to bring them to this friend who I’m blessed to have just met and got­ten to know, espe­cially since I have other in-person and blog friends I’ve been rot­ten to and/or just ignored dur­ing this wal­low I’ve been in, and to whom I also owe sim­i­lar baked goods of love– my ther­a­pist and I both agree.  Ver­bal expres­sions are not my forte, and you can’t really fold up a blog and mail it to someone.

This is what they look like on the inside.  (I had to qual­ity test, to make sure they were an ade­quate expres­sion of my feel­ings of extreme affec­tion and gratitude.)

I believe the cor­rect phrase is OM NOM NOM NOM.  They are sweet, salty, rich, fill­ing.  Just like the best friend­ships can be.

So.  I can’t make you these muffins and bring them to you in per­son — but I can give you the recipe, and assure you that each time you make it, I’m think­ing of how awe­some you are.

Bacon Muffins of Love– Adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Corni­est Corn Muffins from Bak­ing: From My Home To Yours.

Bat­ter:

1 c. all pur­pose flour
1 c. medium ground corn­meal
6 tbsps. sugar
2 1/2 tsps. bak­ing pow­der
1/4 tsp. bak­ing soda
1/2 tsp kosher salt
three strokes freshly ground nut­meg over your grater or microplane zester
1 c. but­ter­milk or whole-milk plain yogurt (I use yogurt, usu­ally Greek, most often, since I rarely have but­ter­milk, but but­ter­milk does freeze)
3 tbsps. salted but­ter, melted and cooled
3 tbsps. corn or other neu­tral oil (I used saf­flower oil, I don’t keep corn oil around)
1 lg. egg
1 lg. egg yolk
1 to 1 1/3 c corn ker­nels (your choice how much) fresh, frozen or canned, room temp.

Mix-ins:

1/3 bun­dle fresh chives, chopped or snipped small with scis­sors to equal appx. 2–3 tbsps.  More cer­tainly will not hurt.
1 c. shred­ded extra-dry ched­dar (I like Cabot’s hunter’s style, Grafton Vil­lage is another good brand)
4 slices bacon, fried until crisp, dried on brown paper, chopped small.

Cen­ter your rack in your oven, pre­heat to 400F.  Butter/spray muf­fin tin cups or line with paper– or use a sil­i­cone muf­fin pan (my pref­er­ence, these things are fantab­u­lous.)

In a large bowl, blend the dry ingre­di­ents together.  In another large bowl or large glass mea­sur­ing cup, whisk the buttermilk/yogurt, melted but­ter, oil, egg and yolk all together until they are blended.

Pour the liq­uid into the dry, then blend with a whisk or a spat­ula until they are blended, never mind­ing about too many lumps.  Add in the corn, herbs, bacon and cheese.  Spoon the bat­ter into the muf­fin cups.

Bake 15–18 min­utes (I baked for 17 with the extra ingre­di­ents) until the tops are gold and the edges light brown.  A knife in the mid­dle of the muffins should come out clean.  Cool five min­utes on a cool­ing rack before remov­ing the muffins from the pan to cool further.

Serve with plenty of but­ter– and love.  A bit of hot pep­per jelly would also not go amiss.

Pan-fried curried lamb shoulder chops with steamed cauliflower and yogurt sauce.

Holy crap, y’all.  I cooked twice this week and not only lived to tell the tale, I also took pic­tures. After all of the work­ing I’ve been doing, this hit the spot.

See?  See?  It’s true!  The cook thing in my screen name isn’t all a vile lie.  Pinky-swear.

This is roughly– very– based on this recipe from January’s Bon Appetit recipe.  I liked the basic idea, but, well, I thought it needed some changes, spice-wise.

I pre-salted and spiced my chops two hours before serv­ing with a tea­spoon each (be not afraid to be bold, we’re going for lay­ers of fla­vor) sweet curry pow­der, cayenne, cumin and ground corian­der, then let them rest (cov­ered in plas­tic wrap, because we have a MOUSE in the house, rrrrrrr) at room temperature.

You pan-sear the chops to your desired level of done-ness.  Mine was medium-rare, about 7 min­utes.  Mark Bittman’s How to Cook Every­thing (if you don’t own it, you should, even if you’re a good cook) has great done-ness temps and times charts at the back of his book.

I steamed the cau­li­flower as ordered, but in place of the reg­u­lar dress­ing, I did this:

2 bunches scal­lions, chopped
1/4 cup cilantro, chopped
1/2– 2/3 plain full-fat yogurt, chopped
2 limes, juiced and zested (these are try­ing times, friends, don’t waste the rind)
a large pinch of salt
2 dashes tabasco
2 table­spoons mango conserve

I would have used chut­ney and the cream sauce like the recipe said, but the co-op was out, they’re quirky like that.  They did have the plain con­serve, how­ever, and thus the ersatz yogurt chut­ney idea was born.  It was yummy, even the hus­band said so, and he’s not a fan of yogurt at all.

Serve with some clemen­tines or a peeled orange and one of those bot­tles of cham­pagne you didn’t open at New Year’s.