Category Archives: food

Ooh! Cooking! Crostini! A trio, even!

Crostini trio

Upon get­ting some of my appetite back (huz­zah), I cel­e­brated with a trio of cros­tini.  Now, hav­ing learned last sum­mer  that the key to good cros­tini (bruschetta, what­ever) is none of this soggy untoasted white bread mess– no, none of that– spray those pieces of cia­b­bata or what-have-you crusty white bread with good olive oil and then pan fry them or broil them until they are toasty and crisp, damnit, crisp.  If you wanted to add salt and fresh ground black pep­per, well, I wouldn’t stop you, you set those cros­tini aside on some brown paper to dry and await top­pings of goodness.

And boy, are these top­pings good.  The recipes below go left to right as shown in the picture.

Top­ping one:  Ricotta and Peach Cros­tini with Pis­ta­chios, from the NYT.  I have, since the mak­ing of this pic­ture, tweaked the recipe.

I know.  You are SHOCKED.  But the arugula and peaches and pis­ta­chios all fell off and got messy, dang it.  So– I chopped the arugula, mixed it and the pis­ta­chios, parme­san, lemon juice, olive oil and salt and pep­per into the ricotta, and slathered that onto the bread.  Then, hav­ing tossed the peaches, cut a bit smaller than shown in this pic­ture, I put them on top of the cheese mix­ture, and served them that way. There was far less toppings-succumbing-to-gravity, and way more toppings-going-into-your-mouth.  Which is as it should be.

Top­ping two:  Kale and Pecorino Cros­tini from Bon Appetit.

Again, recipe tweak­age.  I used 1 tsp anchovy paste from a tube, and added 1/2 tsp red pep­per flakes  at the point at which the kale goes in to saute in the oil.  I also felt the kale could use a squeeze of acid, so after I took it off of the heat, I hit it with a splash, no more than a tea­spoon, of red wine vinegar.

Top­ping three: Spuma di Mor­tadella from the NYT.  (This also goes really well as a dip with raw pears, by the way.)

I didn’t use the cubed mor­tadella, just got the weight called for, sliced, at the deli.  It chopped up just fine in the food proces­sor.  Other than that, I didn’t vary the recipe.  This was absolutely incred­i­ble, a recipe I will make again and again, and so very easy, although the peach one is a very close sec­ond.  One thing I might try just to see what I think in the future is a wee bit of lemon zest (or maybe orange) in the mix the next time, since it’s meat­meat­meat­meat, super rich in its fla­vor, and the flo­ral hit of the zest might be a nice con­trast.  But this is a great appe­tizer, no doubt, and super easy to make, and way less expen­sive than any pate.  The pis­ta­chio top­ping?  Well, that’s all just classy shit.  Because that’s what we’re all about chez blc.  Classy top­pings and shit.  Just ignore the piles of dishes off in the kitchen.

As a woman far greater than me once said– bon appetit.

Now presenting (the invisible past)

She doesn’t get why the girl who’s been shar­ing the seat gives her a glare when she gets off the bus– at least not until the girl– pretty in a red and pur­ple vin­tage style wrap dress, zaftig though more so than Mad Men’s Christina Hen­dricks– says to the friend who’d been stand­ing next to the pole dur­ing the ride–

Skinny bitch.  She shrunk over like fat was contagious.”

Oh.  No, see.  Wait. She wants to get up and chase them, explain, but if she does she’ll be late for her doctor’s appoint­ment, the one she’s going to to fig­ure out why she keeps los­ing so much fuck­ing weight.

See, she slid over because she wanted to get her own body out of the way to give her seat­mate some room– her big thighs, her broad shoul­ders, the way she has to stuff her­self into XL jack­ets and sweaters and her arms look sausage-like, legs look like hams.  Porky, pig-like, right down to the way that she blushes bright pink and sweaty in shame at how she can’t lose the weight, how it’s been a fight all her life– bio­log­i­cal des­tiny, even.  In the pic­tures from her brother’s wed­ding, at 225 lbs, she looks like a not-so-young, sad, tired ver­sion of her sad, tired, 65 year old, 300 lb. mother.  Noth­ing sep­a­rated them what­so­ever but thirty years and the two peo­ple stand­ing between them.

That’s the invis­i­ble self she car­ries around in her head, even as she shifts and squirms on her seat on the bus, curls her back in and away from the “cush­ion” and sits on only one hip, because the hard plas­tic jolts against ver­te­brae, ilia, scapu­lae, every time the bus bumps over train track and pot hole, the to-be-expected ups and downs on the jour­ney of life.

She’s for­got­ten (again) that how she looks on the out­side isn’t how she feels on the inside.

Of course, there are reminders, and not just in the baggy size twelves and larges she wears and the scale that dips under 160 if she eats too much gluten and it roils her guts, so that for a week she needs to con­cen­trate on cram­ming food down to pack it back on.  (How ironic, try­ing to keep the weight on when she was a teenage bulimic.)  But the nutri­tion­ist has made good sug­ges­tions and so far, so good, espe­cially now that they’ve fig­ured out it’s her anti-depressant being depres­sant of sys­tems that just weren’t meant to be so affected.  Now that she’s off, she’s sort-of-hungry again.  Of course, her mood sta­bi­lizer still keeps her appetite down, com­pen­sa­tion for how the last one made her bloat like a bal­loon, but at least now she can eat with­out heaving.

The reminders are there in the way the “fat” girls give her a glare as they get off the bus.  It’s there, too, in the way more peo­ple flirt with her at the store, whether or not they’re mar­ried, whether or not she’s mar­ried too, and her rings are right on her hand.  It’s ironic and kind of gross, because she’s always tried to be nice– polite– pleas­ant to peo­ple– but she sells more mem­ber­ships, too, on the days she wears makeup and since she’s lost weight– sells more e-reader gad­gets in skirts than in pants.  And it’s there in how a half hour in the tub requires more shift­ing around because there’s less of her between her and the enam­eled cast iron– just hot water and bone, a thin layer of skin to go with the steam and what­ever book that she’s read­ing, that and how cer­tain tops slip off her shoul­ders, expose upper ribs and clav­i­cle bones in a way that maybe some find attrac­tive but she looks at in the mir­ror and thinks– well, she doesn’t know, the last time she was this weight she was in high school.

She does know one thing.  When peo­ple offer her a bite of dessert and she declines, it’s not because she doesn’t want to get fat.  It’s because it tastes lousy, waxy, like paste, another effect of the meds.  She’d take it and eat it, she would if she could– it’s calo­rie dense and would help keep the weight on, after all.  But what she can do now ver­sus what she’d do in the past– they’re two dif­fer­ent things, and if she stopped to explain how things are, how they were as con­trasted with what peo­ple see every time?

Maybe they don’t deserve that much expla­na­tion.  Maybe they do.  Maybe she does.  But energy, time, they’re all fleet­ing things– shed almost as quickly as calo­ries, at least for her, nowadays.

There were two recent arti­cles in the NYT about being “fat” and its con­trast.  The F Word, a thinky piece on fash­ion and fat and whether zaftig’s a good thing or not– it’s very well done, and it makes me want to choke down lots more dessert and but­tered baked pota­toes, what­ever I can man­age to eat, so I can fill out my jeans a lit­tle more fully.

There is also this arti­cle about the small-busted, of whom I have always been a mem­ber, no mat­ter my weight.  It points to a wholly dif­fer­ent chal­lenge of fash­ion, i.e., the refusal until only recently to acknowl­edge– gee, really, women come in all shapes and sizes and dif­fer­ent peo­ple find dif­fer­ent things like that attrac­tive and might want pretty under­wear to com­ple­ment that attrac­tive­ness, too?  (Set­ting aside the friv­o­lity of expen­sive under­wear for the moment, and assum­ing instead that the small busted con­sumer should have the right to blow as much money on lace and sheer nylon as Heidi Sontag.)

It’s an old whinge, but a good one.  Design for us all, god­damnit to hell, and in the mean­time, ladies, learn to live with the bod­ies you have.  Take care of your phys­i­cal self, sure, the best that you can– but nip­ping and tuck­ing and tan­ning and stuff­ing your­self all full of botox and sil­i­cone and syn­thetic shit because Karl Lager­feld and Miuc­cia Prada don’t like the way that you’re shaped?

They don’t know you– don’t see you– don’t know all who you’ve been in the past and are right now as you stand there, try­ing on clothes, try­ing to make some­thing fit in the present, try­ing to make room for all the other girls on the bus whose vin­tage style red-and-purple dresses you really like, the ones who are pretty like Christina Hen­dricks, zaftig, just a lit­tle more so.  And that’s fine with you.  Though not with them, because at present, they have their own pasts in their heads.

And this is why I’ll hold on to my (cook)books

There’s a May 24 col­umn from Pete Wells in the Din­ing sec­tion of the NYT about not hav­ing access to his cook­books since they’re boxed up for a move.  He relates a lost­ness he feels, not hav­ing access to those pages, yet talks about how, not being teth­ered to the recipes, he’s in some ways freed to make things up in a way he wouldn’t feel able to do if he had the books open before him, and how it’s loos­ened (and per­haps made more deli­cious?) his cook­ing in a way he hadn’t ever expected.  But he also talks about miss­ing the books and miss­ing all the lit­tle dis­cov­er­ies that you make as you’re look­ing for some­thing else while you’re read­ing– that one piece of wis­dom you weren’t hop­ing to find, that author’s cer­tain com­mand­ment, that a-ha moment when you find some­thing that just inspires you in a way you haven’t been inspired before.

The fact that he could resort to the Inter­net for the indi­vid­ual recipes didn’t allow for that bit, not at all.

I know just what he means.  The art of the browse, the soak­ing up of the author’s aes­thetic, the “get” of the feel– the dribs and drabs of the Inter­net age (and I’m not talk­ing about e-books, because those are dif­fer­ent, much as the aes­thet­ics of paper and flip­ping through things are a dif­fer­ent sub­ject and essay entirely) don’t allow for the reader to just mar­i­nate in the wis­dom of Judy Rodgers’ Zuni Cafe Cook­book (and I know exactly which recipe Wells refers to in his col­umn, it’s a rub I use on all of my meats, it almost seems like, the thing is mag­i­cal, really) and her bril­liant idea of dry-brining her poul­try and meats.  You have to read the book most of the way through, or at least sit down with it for a while and really have a good graze in order to get it, get her– it’s sim­ple, in some ways, but in other ways not, because she’s insis­tent on the absolute best, and there are cer­tain com­mand­ments, cer­tain things you always must do.

It’s that way with lots of my favorite cook­book writ­ers and authors.  Julia Child, Deb­o­rah Madi­son, Susan Her­mann Loomis, Jacques Pepin, Dorie Greenspan, Amanda Hesser, David Lebovitz, Molly Stevens, Nigel Slater, Eliz­a­beth David, Simon Hop­kin­son, Clau­dia Roden, Mark Bittman.  I don’t always cook from their books, but I own most of the things that they’ve writ­ten.  Hell– I don’t often cook from their books, because by this point, I’m a pretty good cook, and I don’t really need recipes to come up with some­thing to eat.

What I need, though, is the reminders– the aes­thet­ics, the inspi­ra­tions, the ideas that prompted me to cook in the first place.  When I look at my fridge and say “ugh,” because I don’t know what to cook, don’t feel inspired, I can return to my very full cook­book shelves and pull down one of my books, even at ran­dom, and page through the index, look­ing for wis­dom to hit me broad­side again.  My cook­ing isn’t one style, and it’s because of these authors– but it’s some­thing unique, drawn from all of their pages.  With­out hav­ing flipped through all those indices, all of those mul­ti­ple books’ mul­ti­ple pages– some­times in bed, since I’m obses­sive like that, I wouldn’t be the cook that I am.

So, Mr. Wells, I hope you get your cook­books unpacked soon– and when you do, I hope your new sense of being less tied to recipes lets you draw inspi­ra­tion wher­ever you will, and return to your beloveds as often as needed.  Because every flour coated,  oil-spattered page is far more beloved than any lap­top perched on a microwave with a recipe open from some perfectly-respectable-but-it’s-not-the-same-thing-at-all-Internet-recipe-site.

Long live the phys­i­cal cookbook.

Provincetown, 2010

We finally had a long-ish week­end away. We spent the week­end in Province­town, at the tip of Cape Cod. There was walk­ing– and eat­ing greasy Por­tuguese sand­wiches for break­fast includ­ing a custardy-yum pasteis de nata and fab­u­lous fish and chips for din­ner one night and another HOMGYUM break­fast oh, there was laugh­ing and talk­ing and just so much time together. A good time was had. Most def­i­nitely.  I’ve got hun­dreds of pic­tures, includ­ing some lovely long walks at the beach, but Provincetown’s not all just that.  There were some really inter­est­ing chairs, for example.

I know.  Chairs, right?

There were light fix­tures, dogs and boats, too.  And of course, there was the beach.  And the flow­ers.  The whole set is here if you’re feel­ing like you just can­nae wait for the stories.

(Also– shame­less plug is totally shame­less.  The bak­ery and the totally-NOT-twee as-I’d-expected tea house we stopped at in Sand­wich on the way back were fea­tured in this book which you should come buy at MY store in Chest­nut Hill because we’re hav­ing a con­test all over the state and I want to win, damnit.  And it’s a good book– so far, the rec­om­men­da­tions seem to be sound.  J/K.  You could buy it online or at your local retailer of books, etc., but it’s still a good book.)

Shakshuka and more of the poached egg chronicles (but Jenn, just add more feta)

Deb at Smit­ten Kitchen had this recipe for Shak­shuka, an Israeli Spicy Tomato Stew with Poached Eggs that I really wanted to try.  See, it looked really easy, a one pot dish that you built by lay­er­ing fla­vors, and when the stew was basi­cally done, you popped in a few eggs and poached them in the cooked liq­uid, then spooned them out into bowls, sprin­kled them over with feta and pars­ley and voila, BOOM, dinner.

See?  Doesn’t it look just yummy?

It was just that easy, and ooh, it was awe­some.  Espe­cially because I tried this new Rhode Island feta that I bought at the Ded­ham Whole Foods.  But for those of you who don’t like poached eggs, the stew base is deli­cious and spicy and yum.   I made it with 2 jalapenos, not three, and did the jalapenos, not the Ana­heim Chiles.  If you’re not a fan of poached eggs,  you could totally poach some fish or scal­lops or shrimp in the liq­uid, or just add more feta.  (Yes, Jenn, I tried it with­out the egg for break­fast this morn­ing.  It’s awe­some with­out the egg and just a lit­tle more cheese.)

I did devi­ate from Deb’s recipe in one way.  She sug­gests you serve it with pita, and I didn’t do that since I’m try­ing to get back to gluten-free eat­ing.  What I did instead is make socca.

Socca?  What’s this?  It’s chickpea-flour flat­bread, made from Bob’s Red Mill chick­pea flour I bought at my co-op.  Bob’s rocks, plain and sim­ple.  I keep the open pack­ages in the freezer in a ziploc after they’re open, since the bean flours tend to go ran­cid.  Here’s what it looked like, after it baked.

My recipe is based on the one in Fran McCullough’s Liv­ing Low Carb, page 135.  Since I mod­i­fied it a bit, I’ll post it here.

1 cup room tem­per­a­ture water
2/3 c chick­pea flour
3 tbsps extra vir­gin olive oil
1 tsp salt
5–6 grinds fresh black pep­per
Penzey’s rose­mary pow­der and/or finely chopped dried or fresh rose­mary nee­dles, at least 1/4 tsp.

Mix all ingre­di­ents in a bowl, whisk­ing until all lumps are gone.  Let sit for one hour.

Pre­heat oven to 500F.  In some­thing smaller than a sheet pan (this is why mine looks uneven and ragged, all the right pans for this recipe hap­pened to be dirty last night)– you want some­thing more like a round pizza pan or a 10–12 inch oven-proof skil­let, oil the pan with more olive oil, pour the bat­ter, then put it in to bake until set, approx. 6 minutes.

Turn on the broiler, take out the socca and spray/drizzle the top with more oil before putting it under the heat to crisp until golden brown, 3–5 min­utes.  Sprin­kle with salt and pep­per if you like (I didn’t, because I like my bat­ter pre-seasoned, I don’t think it needs any more), cut into wedges, and serve.