Category Archives: cooking

In which fish stew is made and consumed and I actually post on the internet, too, only breaking a few laws in the process.

I know.  You’re shocked.  Cook­ing, here at bipolarlawyercook?

What’s up with that?

Here, let me get out the smelling salts before I start post­ing pic­tures and recount­ing the recipe and prov­ing that yeah, that “cook” thing in my han­dle isn’t there just for show.

I know.  I had to pick the poor Bet­ter Half up off the floor too.  More­over, I had to enlist the poor bas­tard in prep­ping the stew, it’d been so long since I’d been home on a week­night and had the day off and had the time to go gro­cery shop­ping (thank you, end­less round of close shifts and emo­tional exhaus­tion prior to job trans­fer, whut?)  But he was a champ, and we got it done, which was good, because today was one of those first raw fall blus­tery days where you’re (or maybe just me, but still) all– “Hmm.  SOUP.  Yeah.”

This tasty, gluten-free, low-carbish (just leave out the rice and brown sugar if you so choose) white fish stew is DELICIOUS.  And not really a chow­der despite my sojourn this past week­end in Province­town on the Cape (and more, per­haps, some­time, on how the leather dad­dies and their boys knew my col­lege best friend and I weren’t together but the les­bians all seemed to give us the “you’re a cute cou­ple” nod, which I thought was lol­rar­i­ous) stew is Thai-flavored, deli­cious, and except for a lit­tle chop­ping for prep, quick-cooking and easy to make.

It comes straight from Melissa Clark’s new book In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite , a cook­book I am very much enjoy­ing and lit­ter­ing with pos­tit notes at night in my bed.  Clark writes reg­u­larly for the NYT, and I’ve made sev­eral recipes of hers over this spring and sum­mer that were solid hits that I just haven’t got­ten around to post­ing about (includ­ing her OMG gaz­pa­cho with yogurt which you should go google right now).  (I’ve been COOKING.  I’ve just been remiss in blog­ging.  I know.  You’re shocked.)

I tweaked the recipe in one way that departs from the highly copy­right viola­tive way in which I am about to just post the fol­low­ing photo of the recipe straight from the book:  I rinsed and chopped one small­ish zuc­chini, halved it length­wise, then halved it again and cut it into thin quar­ter slices, to be added in at the last stage with the fish.

As for the rest:  the BH does not care for shell­fish, so I used 1 lb. wild-caught George’s Bank cod in place of the vari­ety rec­om­mended, since the snap­per was farmed and I just … don’t like farmed fish, no mat­ter what peo­ple may say about safety.  I served it with Jas­mine rice, wicked lazy style– Trader Joe’s sells some frozen (I shit you not) in lit­tle microwav­able bags and I zapped one to serve on the side and spoon into the bowl.  You could skip it if you’re count­ing your carbs.  Like­wise, the recipe calls for 1 tbsp. brown sugar for that authen­tic Thai-ish kind of taste.  I have a feel­ing you could add in agave nec­tar in equal pro­por­tion right before serv­ing if you were watch­ing your sugar and get about the same fla­vor, though I haven’t tried it.

So.  Recipe.  (I know.  Going to hell.  At least I will have been well fed on the way…):

Mise en place, aka all that shit you need to get started.

And then, by the magic of my being too lazy to take a pic­ture of what’s really a very fast process– seri­ously, stir the shal­lots and gar­lic until ten­der in oil, then add the liq­uid and sim­mer 10 min­utes before adding the fish and the zuc­chini and cook­ing three min­utes more– we have the fin­ished product.

Voila.  Pretty, pretty coconut fish stew with basil and lemon­grass.  And zuc­chini.  Because I’m sub­ver­sive in adding veg­gies like that.

Here’s the ver­sion with rice, in case you want to know what it looks like all fragrant-steamy with the added odor of Jas­mine rice mix­ing in with the coconut milk and the lime juice and fish stew loveliness.

Thus ends my fish tale, all of it totally true.  Espe­cially the part about my vio­lat­ing copy­right by post­ing the recipe pic­ture.  Although adding the zuc­chini arguably trans­forms this whole post into fair use.

I think.

Eh.

I think I’ll have some more soup and not worry instead.  It’s that kind of soup.

And this is why I’ll hold on to my (cook)books

There’s a May 24 col­umn from Pete Wells in the Din­ing sec­tion of the NYT about not hav­ing access to his cook­books since they’re boxed up for a move.  He relates a lost­ness he feels, not hav­ing access to those pages, yet talks about how, not being teth­ered to the recipes, he’s in some ways freed to make things up in a way he wouldn’t feel able to do if he had the books open before him, and how it’s loos­ened (and per­haps made more deli­cious?) his cook­ing in a way he hadn’t ever expected.  But he also talks about miss­ing the books and miss­ing all the lit­tle dis­cov­er­ies that you make as you’re look­ing for some­thing else while you’re read­ing– that one piece of wis­dom you weren’t hop­ing to find, that author’s cer­tain com­mand­ment, that a-ha moment when you find some­thing that just inspires you in a way you haven’t been inspired before.

The fact that he could resort to the Inter­net for the indi­vid­ual recipes didn’t allow for that bit, not at all.

I know just what he means.  The art of the browse, the soak­ing up of the author’s aes­thetic, the “get” of the feel– the dribs and drabs of the Inter­net age (and I’m not talk­ing about e-books, because those are dif­fer­ent, much as the aes­thet­ics of paper and flip­ping through things are a dif­fer­ent sub­ject and essay entirely) don’t allow for the reader to just mar­i­nate in the wis­dom of Judy Rodgers’ Zuni Cafe Cook­book (and I know exactly which recipe Wells refers to in his col­umn, it’s a rub I use on all of my meats, it almost seems like, the thing is mag­i­cal, really) and her bril­liant idea of dry-brining her poul­try and meats.  You have to read the book most of the way through, or at least sit down with it for a while and really have a good graze in order to get it, get her– it’s sim­ple, in some ways, but in other ways not, because she’s insis­tent on the absolute best, and there are cer­tain com­mand­ments, cer­tain things you always must do.

It’s that way with lots of my favorite cook­book writ­ers and authors.  Julia Child, Deb­o­rah Madi­son, Susan Her­mann Loomis, Jacques Pepin, Dorie Greenspan, Amanda Hesser, David Lebovitz, Molly Stevens, Nigel Slater, Eliz­a­beth David, Simon Hop­kin­son, Clau­dia Roden, Mark Bittman.  I don’t always cook from their books, but I own most of the things that they’ve writ­ten.  Hell– I don’t often cook from their books, because by this point, I’m a pretty good cook, and I don’t really need recipes to come up with some­thing to eat.

What I need, though, is the reminders– the aes­thet­ics, the inspi­ra­tions, the ideas that prompted me to cook in the first place.  When I look at my fridge and say “ugh,” because I don’t know what to cook, don’t feel inspired, I can return to my very full cook­book shelves and pull down one of my books, even at ran­dom, and page through the index, look­ing for wis­dom to hit me broad­side again.  My cook­ing isn’t one style, and it’s because of these authors– but it’s some­thing unique, drawn from all of their pages.  With­out hav­ing flipped through all those indices, all of those mul­ti­ple books’ mul­ti­ple pages– some­times in bed, since I’m obses­sive like that, I wouldn’t be the cook that I am.

So, Mr. Wells, I hope you get your cook­books unpacked soon– and when you do, I hope your new sense of being less tied to recipes lets you draw inspi­ra­tion wher­ever you will, and return to your beloveds as often as needed.  Because every flour coated,  oil-spattered page is far more beloved than any lap­top perched on a microwave with a recipe open from some perfectly-respectable-but-it’s-not-the-same-thing-at-all-Internet-recipe-site.

Long live the phys­i­cal cookbook.

Shakshuka and more of the poached egg chronicles (but Jenn, just add more feta)

Deb at Smit­ten Kitchen had this recipe for Shak­shuka, an Israeli Spicy Tomato Stew with Poached Eggs that I really wanted to try.  See, it looked really easy, a one pot dish that you built by lay­er­ing fla­vors, and when the stew was basi­cally done, you popped in a few eggs and poached them in the cooked liq­uid, then spooned them out into bowls, sprin­kled them over with feta and pars­ley and voila, BOOM, dinner.

See?  Doesn’t it look just yummy?

It was just that easy, and ooh, it was awe­some.  Espe­cially because I tried this new Rhode Island feta that I bought at the Ded­ham Whole Foods.  But for those of you who don’t like poached eggs, the stew base is deli­cious and spicy and yum.   I made it with 2 jalapenos, not three, and did the jalapenos, not the Ana­heim Chiles.  If you’re not a fan of poached eggs,  you could totally poach some fish or scal­lops or shrimp in the liq­uid, or just add more feta.  (Yes, Jenn, I tried it with­out the egg for break­fast this morn­ing.  It’s awe­some with­out the egg and just a lit­tle more cheese.)

I did devi­ate from Deb’s recipe in one way.  She sug­gests you serve it with pita, and I didn’t do that since I’m try­ing to get back to gluten-free eat­ing.  What I did instead is make socca.

Socca?  What’s this?  It’s chickpea-flour flat­bread, made from Bob’s Red Mill chick­pea flour I bought at my co-op.  Bob’s rocks, plain and sim­ple.  I keep the open pack­ages in the freezer in a ziploc after they’re open, since the bean flours tend to go ran­cid.  Here’s what it looked like, after it baked.

My recipe is based on the one in Fran McCullough’s Liv­ing Low Carb, page 135.  Since I mod­i­fied it a bit, I’ll post it here.

1 cup room tem­per­a­ture water
2/3 c chick­pea flour
3 tbsps extra vir­gin olive oil
1 tsp salt
5–6 grinds fresh black pep­per
Penzey’s rose­mary pow­der and/or finely chopped dried or fresh rose­mary nee­dles, at least 1/4 tsp.

Mix all ingre­di­ents in a bowl, whisk­ing until all lumps are gone.  Let sit for one hour.

Pre­heat oven to 500F.  In some­thing smaller than a sheet pan (this is why mine looks uneven and ragged, all the right pans for this recipe hap­pened to be dirty last night)– you want some­thing more like a round pizza pan or a 10–12 inch oven-proof skil­let, oil the pan with more olive oil, pour the bat­ter, then put it in to bake until set, approx. 6 minutes.

Turn on the broiler, take out the socca and spray/drizzle the top with more oil before putting it under the heat to crisp until golden brown, 3–5 min­utes.  Sprin­kle with salt and pep­per if you like (I didn’t, because I like my bat­ter pre-seasoned, I don’t think it needs any more), cut into wedges, and serve.

Screw noodles. This is the chicken soup that you want.

You will never want noo­dles again.  Fine Cooking’s Chicken Soup with Lime and Hominy. Yum doesn’t even begin to describe it.

I made the fol­low­ing changes.  (What?  Me, leave a recipe all on its own?)  I let the chicken dry-season with the salt, pep­per, and oregano called for in the recipe while I sauteed the onion, gar­lic and jalapeno.  I also juli­enned a zuc­chini and added it dur­ing the last five min­utes along with the lime juice for a lit­tle added veg­etable nutri­ti­tion.  I didn’t bother dic­ing avo­cado, just bought gua­camole and stirred it in with chopped feta and bits of cilantro right before serv­ing.  I cut up real corn tor­tillas, fried the strips with salt and pep­per and oil until they started to turn crisp and golden, then let them drain on brown paper before toss­ing pieces into the fin­ished bowls of soup.

This was incred­i­ble– so very yum.  I swear it cures not only scurvy but the grump­ies and other ills of the day.  (Although that sec­ond glass of Macon-Villages?  That might have helped.)

And now, for something completely different

The new drugs I’m on kill my appetite.

Kill.  I have no sense of full­ness until– boom– I’m sud­denly nau­seous– and if I eat some­thing too sweet, it gets my gag on some­thing fierce.

There’s a post I’ve been work­ing on– badly– for­ever, it seems, about food and con­trol and issues of fat­ness and thin­ness and all of that jive.  It’s not get­ting too far.  Suf­fice it to say I’m not hun­gry.  I feel that as a loss, not just because I get no sig­nal betwixt my brain and my stomach.

Cooking’s cre­ative for me– med­i­ta­tive for me– relax­ation, alone-time, a sen­sory, sen­sual process for some­one who lives in her head and spends much time talk­ing and think­ing.  To be instead tast­ing and feel­ing and smelling and feed­ing– it’s hard to encom­pass all the reward that can bring.

And yet– I’m not hun­gry.  And I don’t know I’m not hun­gry, except when my head is all buzzy and I’m feel­ing con­fused.  I don’t think about food, dream of menus to cook, peruse cook­books in pur­suit of large din­ners to cook for fam­ily and friends in expres­sions of love, because say­ing such things aloud?

Not gen­teel.  Not gen­teel at all, don’t you know.

And in the mean­time, my poor husband’s eat­ing peanut but­ter and jelly, I’m nearly pass­ing out at my job, and I’m los­ing even more weight than I ought, all because I’m not hun­gry nor think­ing about food.  (To the tune of thirty pounds since I started my book­store job, all in all.  Yeah.  I really don’t need to lose any more weight.  Not the kind of thing most peo­ple com­plain about, and yet, still…)

I’m not yet back to dream­ing up menus.  Nor am I up to the spon­ta­neous cre­ation of meals.  But I can dogear my food mag­a­zines and bring them to the mar­ket and do my shop­ping that way– and then I can cook them and take pho­tos– and I can share them with you, at least virtually.

The fol­low­ing things– my, they were tasty.

Slow-Braised Hal­ibut with Shaved Fen­nel and Aspara­gus Salad from April’s Bon Appetit– served with Louis Jadot’s Macon-Villages.  Lovely, piquant, dif­fer­ent, the fish was rich with­out being heavy, and the salad, while kind of a pain in the butt with the shav­ing and peel­ing (next time, I am just putting the whole clump of aspara­gus spears butt-down on the man­do­line and slic­ing them into lit­tle rounds, be damned with the ele­gant strips, since I’d already used the thing to shave all the fen­nel) was really lovely and fresh.  The salad alone is well worth the repeat, maybe on its own as an entree with some hard-boiled eggs, some sliced radishes, that kind of thing.  But the fish, and the but­tery crumbs.  It was deli­cious.  The recipe wasn’t clear what to do with the aspara­gus tips, so I tossed them in with the fish to roast.  They were a bit al dente, but I like them a lit­tle bit crunchy, so it was all good.

Five-Spice Ground Pork with Chi­nese Egg Noo­dles from (these are all the most recent) Fine Cook­ing, served with Cop­pola Black-Label Claret (2007)– I would increase the amount of red pep­per and have more lime wedges at table as a per­sonal pref­er­ence.  I might also serve it with beer instead of red wine.  (Also, peanut alert.  This would be equally awe­some with cashews.)

Rice Noo­dles with Chicken and Cilantro from Fine Cook­ing (subbed for Shrimp), served with Il Pros­ecco.  I would serve red hot sauce as a condi­ment to add at the table, along with some soy sauce, for extra wet-tening/salt-ening pur­poses.  I might also up the gin­ger and jalapeno quo­tient by half again, but I’ve become quite the fan of hot­ter foods in the last year or two.  Note that I made this with already-cooked chicken, and so skipped some of the steps in the recipe about cook­ing the shrimp– I just cubed the grilled chicken and added it right at the end to warm through with the sauce before adding the noo­dles and sauce to blend all the flavors.

Creamy Braised Onions and Gar­lic with Spaghetti from Fine Cook­ing– the sausage was an add-in for more pro­tein, and I used onions instead of leeks, and creme fraiche instead of heavy cream because that’s what I had.  I used ver­mouth as my sta­ple white wine.

I can’t tell you how NOM this last one was with the creme fraiche and the long-simmered onions.  It was kind of like french onion soup, except bet­ter.  It really was com­fort food, and while not gluten free (some­thing I need to keep bet­ter watch of, except calo­ries are some­thing I’m more con­cerned about at this point, quite frankly), it was really delicious.

So.  Happy cook­ing.  May your mag­a­zines be dogeared as you float through the aisles at the mar­ket, and may your hus­bands and wives and sig­nif­i­cant dog­gies and kit­ties and ham­sters look at you funny and say “Why don’t you just make out a list?” and you can just look at them over your glasses and say “Shut up, at least I am cook­ing,” and damnit, you will eat very well.

Espe­cially the one with the fish and the one with the creme fraiche.  Not that I have any favorites.  I LOVE ALL MY CHILDREN.