Category Archives: baking

Butcher, baker, candlestick maker

These last two weeks, I’ve been wear­ing my baker’s hat.  I made some lemon yogurt muffins from Mar­ion Cunningham’s Break­fast Book, a cook­book every­one should have if only for her Fresh Gin­ger Cake and Nut­meg Muffins, and then made the (gluten free) Choco­late Chip Cook­ies in Cook­ing for Isa­iah.  The lat­ter were excel­lent, and no one at work noticed they were GF.  The tex­ture was a bit dif­fer­ent, but I made them with but­ter and not the short­en­ing option (com­pletely tested & approved by the author) and they were deli­cious and toll-house-y, which is really the depar­ture point for all choco­late chip cook­ies.  And they did not make my stom­ach upset, always a bonus.

But as tasty as these things were, they couldn’t beat two real standouts.

First:  Melissa Clark’s Blood Orange Olive Oil Cake.  I love Clark’s col­umn, “A Good Appetite,” at the NYT, and I own her book.  Twice.  In hard­cover, and also on my Nook Color so I can shop from it ran­domly in the super­mar­ket when I have no idea what to cook.  I’d never made an olive oil-based cake, and I hadn’t had this winter’s serv­ing of blood oranges, so.…  I used yogurt, not but­ter­milk, an either/or option in the recipe, and though Clark calls for whipped cream on the side, I wanted creme fraiche.  And my blood oranges were a lit­tle dry and tart, so– I heated my honey-fruit com­pote in the microwave with a lit­tle more honey than called for to give it more sweet­ness and oomph.

Melissa Clark's Blood Orange Olive Oil Cake

It was gor­geous and moist and a lovely, cit­rusy, mid­win­ter cake.

And then there is Impos­si­ble Pie. Today’s been an Impos­si­ble Day, for var­i­ous rea­sons that aren’t bor­ing or unblog­gable but which, well– I just don’t feel like dis­cussing the rea­sons. So I won’t. But I did make Impos­si­ble Pie, which gets its name (so says the March 2011 Food & Wine arti­cle in which it’s con­tained) because it forms its own crust from the one-bowl bat­tery mess of dried coconut and other pantry and fridge sta­ples (um, if you keep coconut in your pantry, that is) that is totally worth mak­ing if you feel like– I need some­thing custardy-sweet and com­fort­ing.  Now.  I did tweak the recipe thusly: I didn’t have sweet­ened coconut, only un-, and I had coconut milk, so I used 1 cup coconut milk (all the liq­uid in the can and then enough of the sploogy-clotted coconut cream to make one cup in a two-cup mea­sure and 1 cup whole cow’s to fill) plus 2 cups dried unsweet­ened coconut– then every­thing else as called for.

It’s not gluten free– it calls for 1/2 cup of self-raising flour (cheat recipe here)– and the next time I make it, I’m going to try sub­bing in the basic gluten free blend from Cook­ing for Isa­iah with the self-raising adap­ta­tion of bak­ing pow­der and salt and see how I do– but it’s not so much that I think I’ll get a rumbly tummy from one slice a day.  Or two.  Maybe three?  Why not.  I deserve it.

Impossible Pie

It’s awfully good– enough to turn an Impos­si­ble Day into a pos­si­ble one, even.

Not just any pancake

The hus­band can cook.  Very well, in fact.  He is a break­fast cook extra­or­di­naire.  His omelets?  You should be so lucky to be the recip­i­ent of his egg cook­ery.  Trust me on this.  He gave me (while I was dat­ing another man, no less) my copies of Mas­ter­ing the Art of French Cook­ing one Christ­mas.  He’s also an excel­lent baker.  (Just don’t expect him not to use every pot in the kitchen.)

So, when I was look­ing at Amanda Hesser’s web­site, food52, and saw David Eyre’s Pan­cake there as a pre­view of the new Essen­tial New York Times Cook­book, I thought to myself, “Self, this is what we’re hav­ing for break­fast tomor­row.”  And promptly handed the recipe over to my Bet­ter Half.  Because I stink at mak­ing pancakes.

Yep.  I am made of pan­cake fail.  You heard it here first.

But the hus­band?  He is not.  He can also make waf­fles.  And some­times?  The gluten is worth it.  These pan­cakes most def­i­nitely are worth it.  Cut into fourths, sprin­kled with a lit­tle lemon juice and coated with pow­dered (or superfine, because that’s what we had) sugar– mmmm.  Deli­cious.  A recipe worth the book’s price of admis­sion, I think.

Truly.  There’s a rea­son we’ve been mar­ried for 10 years this com­ing week.

Well, that and the open­ing jars thing.

Shakshuka and more of the poached egg chronicles (but Jenn, just add more feta)

Deb at Smit­ten Kitchen had this recipe for Shak­shuka, an Israeli Spicy Tomato Stew with Poached Eggs that I really wanted to try.  See, it looked really easy, a one pot dish that you built by lay­er­ing fla­vors, and when the stew was basi­cally done, you popped in a few eggs and poached them in the cooked liq­uid, then spooned them out into bowls, sprin­kled them over with feta and pars­ley and voila, BOOM, dinner.

See?  Doesn’t it look just yummy?

It was just that easy, and ooh, it was awe­some.  Espe­cially because I tried this new Rhode Island feta that I bought at the Ded­ham Whole Foods.  But for those of you who don’t like poached eggs, the stew base is deli­cious and spicy and yum.   I made it with 2 jalapenos, not three, and did the jalapenos, not the Ana­heim Chiles.  If you’re not a fan of poached eggs,  you could totally poach some fish or scal­lops or shrimp in the liq­uid, or just add more feta.  (Yes, Jenn, I tried it with­out the egg for break­fast this morn­ing.  It’s awe­some with­out the egg and just a lit­tle more cheese.)

I did devi­ate from Deb’s recipe in one way.  She sug­gests you serve it with pita, and I didn’t do that since I’m try­ing to get back to gluten-free eat­ing.  What I did instead is make socca.

Socca?  What’s this?  It’s chickpea-flour flat­bread, made from Bob’s Red Mill chick­pea flour I bought at my co-op.  Bob’s rocks, plain and sim­ple.  I keep the open pack­ages in the freezer in a ziploc after they’re open, since the bean flours tend to go ran­cid.  Here’s what it looked like, after it baked.

My recipe is based on the one in Fran McCullough’s Liv­ing Low Carb, page 135.  Since I mod­i­fied it a bit, I’ll post it here.

1 cup room tem­per­a­ture water
2/3 c chick­pea flour
3 tbsps extra vir­gin olive oil
1 tsp salt
5–6 grinds fresh black pep­per
Penzey’s rose­mary pow­der and/or finely chopped dried or fresh rose­mary nee­dles, at least 1/4 tsp.

Mix all ingre­di­ents in a bowl, whisk­ing until all lumps are gone.  Let sit for one hour.

Pre­heat oven to 500F.  In some­thing smaller than a sheet pan (this is why mine looks uneven and ragged, all the right pans for this recipe hap­pened to be dirty last night)– you want some­thing more like a round pizza pan or a 10–12 inch oven-proof skil­let, oil the pan with more olive oil, pour the bat­ter, then put it in to bake until set, approx. 6 minutes.

Turn on the broiler, take out the socca and spray/drizzle the top with more oil before putting it under the heat to crisp until golden brown, 3–5 min­utes.  Sprin­kle with salt and pep­per if you like (I didn’t, because I like my bat­ter pre-seasoned, I don’t think it needs any more), cut into wedges, and serve.

Bacon Muffins of Love

So– say you’ve been sick for a while– a never-ending cold that dragged on for a month, your cycli­cal spring depres­sion and a brief, scary manic burst of irra­tional rage, var­i­ous fam­ily things going on, etc., and you’ve also got to work and get up every day and at least pre­tend to the out­side world that you’re func­tion­ing like a com­plete human being.

In the midst of this, let us sup­pose you are so lucky as to have befriended some awe­some online peo­ple who not only leave you won­der­ful com­ments and call you even when you don’t call them back and send you encour­ag­ing emails, but one of them hap­pens to be some­one who lives rather nearby and is some­one with whom you’ve been lucky enough to break bread and share in-person laughter.

Fur­ther sup­pose that such per­son, know­ing how mis­er­ably sick you have been, embarks on a cheering-up project of epic proportions.

Imag­ine if, every day for a month, you got a post­card with silly mes­sages she knew would cheer you immensely.

What would you do?

I baked bacon muffins of love.  A whole dozen (though two did not sur­vive tran­sit for var­i­ous qual­ity testing-type pur­poses.  QT is IMPORTANT.)  Today I got to bring them to this friend who I’m blessed to have just met and got­ten to know, espe­cially since I have other in-person and blog friends I’ve been rot­ten to and/or just ignored dur­ing this wal­low I’ve been in, and to whom I also owe sim­i­lar baked goods of love– my ther­a­pist and I both agree.  Ver­bal expres­sions are not my forte, and you can’t really fold up a blog and mail it to someone.

This is what they look like on the inside.  (I had to qual­ity test, to make sure they were an ade­quate expres­sion of my feel­ings of extreme affec­tion and gratitude.)

I believe the cor­rect phrase is OM NOM NOM NOM.  They are sweet, salty, rich, fill­ing.  Just like the best friend­ships can be.

So.  I can’t make you these muffins and bring them to you in per­son — but I can give you the recipe, and assure you that each time you make it, I’m think­ing of how awe­some you are.

Bacon Muffins of Love– Adapted from Dorie Greenspan’s Corni­est Corn Muffins from Bak­ing: From My Home To Yours.

Bat­ter:

1 c. all pur­pose flour
1 c. medium ground corn­meal
6 tbsps. sugar
2 1/2 tsps. bak­ing pow­der
1/4 tsp. bak­ing soda
1/2 tsp kosher salt
three strokes freshly ground nut­meg over your grater or microplane zester
1 c. but­ter­milk or whole-milk plain yogurt (I use yogurt, usu­ally Greek, most often, since I rarely have but­ter­milk, but but­ter­milk does freeze)
3 tbsps. salted but­ter, melted and cooled
3 tbsps. corn or other neu­tral oil (I used saf­flower oil, I don’t keep corn oil around)
1 lg. egg
1 lg. egg yolk
1 to 1 1/3 c corn ker­nels (your choice how much) fresh, frozen or canned, room temp.

Mix-ins:

1/3 bun­dle fresh chives, chopped or snipped small with scis­sors to equal appx. 2–3 tbsps.  More cer­tainly will not hurt.
1 c. shred­ded extra-dry ched­dar (I like Cabot’s hunter’s style, Grafton Vil­lage is another good brand)
4 slices bacon, fried until crisp, dried on brown paper, chopped small.

Cen­ter your rack in your oven, pre­heat to 400F.  Butter/spray muf­fin tin cups or line with paper– or use a sil­i­cone muf­fin pan (my pref­er­ence, these things are fantab­u­lous.)

In a large bowl, blend the dry ingre­di­ents together.  In another large bowl or large glass mea­sur­ing cup, whisk the buttermilk/yogurt, melted but­ter, oil, egg and yolk all together until they are blended.

Pour the liq­uid into the dry, then blend with a whisk or a spat­ula until they are blended, never mind­ing about too many lumps.  Add in the corn, herbs, bacon and cheese.  Spoon the bat­ter into the muf­fin cups.

Bake 15–18 min­utes (I baked for 17 with the extra ingre­di­ents) until the tops are gold and the edges light brown.  A knife in the mid­dle of the muffins should come out clean.  Cool five min­utes on a cool­ing rack before remov­ing the muffins from the pan to cool further.

Serve with plenty of but­ter– and love.  A bit of hot pep­per jelly would also not go amiss.

Christmas dinner